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Adventures on a Small Planet, Currently in Kiev, Ukraine


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Archive for the ‘People and Faces’ Category

Hello World!

My name is Michael Anthony Geller. I was born on March 18, 2009, which means I’m a Pisces, like my Dad. Though my parents desperately wanted me to turn upside down, I was insisting to sitting like a little Buddha in the cozy little womb I called home… and consequently, my birthday was (sorta) picked for me.

Here I am showing them where to stick the bottle…

My name was chosen because my parents like the way it sounds. But the more I think about it, I think there is some correlation with some of my forefathers. Specifically, my Dad’s grandfather was named Milton – which I think led to the Michael; and My Mom’s father was named Anatoliy – which I’m pretty sure resulted in Anthony. According to Wikipedia, Geller comes from German, Yiddish, and/or Russian. It also means “one who yells,” so my parents are in for a special treat!

Speaking of my parents, here they are again:

Mom

and Dad

On that great day last Wednesday, March 18, we were at a nice private clinic called ISIDA in Kyiv, Ukraine. Yep, I’m a Ukrainian! But wouldn’t you know it, even though I’m proud as hell to be born in The Ukraine, Dad has already insisted that I become an American – and so I’m supposed to get my picture taken sometime in the next week or two, and then I get my first passport from the American Embassy. Nice people over at the U.S. Embassy in Kyiv, I’m told. I guess that means I’m not allowed to be President of the USA, huh? Oh well… those guys are tight-asses anyway.

The birth was fairly easy, and my Dad took a lot of pictures (and some movies). Yes, he was in the room at the time with the camera in hand. It’s sort of embarrassing, but I think he even got a picture of me peeing all over the nurses when I was about 2 minutes “old.” One of the nurses even screamed a bit in surprise. The others giggled. Pretty soon thereafter, the nurses poked and prodded a bit, and noticed I was gaining color quickly. My lungs obviously worked. I tested them out about 10 seconds after leaving the womb.

Here I am, about 2 minutes old. Kinda gross, but kinda beautiful too!!!

Look, my cord is still attached!

I think Dad was amazed to see a live baby come out!!!

They put me on the scale and I weighed in at 3.44kg. Not too shabby since the doctors were saying I was average/small during most of my development. It just goes to show you how accurate those stupid ultrasound thingys are. For you non-math majors out there, that’s about 7lb 9oz. The nurse wasted no time in measuring me too… I was 54cm long and my head was 38cm in diameter. Also, not so bad. Not quite a Kareem Abdul Jabbar or anything, but I think I should be able to hold my own when I’m all grown up. Of course these measurements were taken over a week ago now (by about 12 hours), and I’ve probably put on a good half cm and at least 100-200 g.

I was immediately given to Dad and was taken out of the delivery room, and Mom showed up in the recovery room about 20 minutes later. I was quite comfortable being wrapped up like a little worm. They also left that little bit of “white stuff” on my face for a little while – I guess it has some protective qualities.

Though I didn’t want to leave my folks, the nurses took me away to where the other babies were gathering that evening; something like a “meeting of the minds,” I believe. I overheard my parents conversing the next day about what had happened. Mom needed to sleep, and Dad went home because he wasn’t allowed to stay. That was my first day… and the rest is (proverbial) history!

We spent a few more days in the hospital, learned all about baby care, and enjoyed round-the-clock attention. I’m now at home, and I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Whitey the Cat. I understand why they named him that — but I’m sure glad they thought about it more when they named ME!!!!!

Maybe I’m being sensitive, but I think Whitey is a bit jealous already. I hope to be better friends in the future.

That’s all for now. I’ll keep you updated whenever I (or my parents) do something cool  :-)

Cheers, and thanks for reading,

– Michael

Let There Be Life!

It is pure joy to announce the birth of our son, Baby. We have not named him yet, as Russian tradition does not demand such. We have some solid choices, but we will wait to make sure the name fits :-)

The funniest thing about this is that there are, more or less, like only 10 male Russian names to choose from !!!

Anyhow, I wanted to let everyone know that Mom, Dad, and Baby are doing well.

Everyone is happy to be alive and so far, quite healthy. We are ecstatic about being part of a growing new family.

We will be posting more soon, obviously. But TODAY is the first day of our son’s life, and I wanted to post a picture or two. Even as I write this, he’s still not even 12 hours old!!!!

With Much Love, from Kiev,

Scott, Helen, and ???

Baby!

Mom!

and, Dad!!!!

There’s no hiding it anymore…

She’s pregnant, and everyone knows it.

Shockingly, people are even offering their seat to my wife on the subway. I never thought anyone here would be so kind. Alas, I was wrong. I’ve seen it several times just in the last couple of days. Nice people…  that obviously know what it’s like to bear children. Even with all the winter clothes on (because it’s -5C), it’s still quite obvious.

Theres no hiding this big belly.

There's no hiding this big belly.

It’s big, but it’s beautiful. And there’s no doubt that it’s going to get way bigger in these final few months.

If anyone has any sage advice for a father to be – please leave a comment!

Timing is Everything

What a day.

Today was one of those days that needs to be documented. Highs, lows, and everything in between.

We start off early, waking up at 7am. A bit earlier than I like, but hey, we had things to accomplish today. The first of which was to make sure my wife was, satisfied. Needless to say, the day started off quite well. I headed to the kitchen at 7:30 to have a cup of tea and a bite of tvarog (baked cheesy stuff) for breakfast.

We packed up our usual Dacha gear, and headed out on our first errand – picking up the Mom’s good (long time) friend Svetlana (Sveta). No worries… we all hop in the car after depositing our belongings into the trunk of the Russian built, silver, 2006 Lada. Bro had lent us his car, and he was bitter about deciding to do it. He left AT 7:30 to make an appointment he scheduled the day before. His girlfriend waited another half hour and hitched a ride with us to the Metro station. So, we departed our beloved apartment on the Left Bank, injected 100 Hrivna ($20) into the petrol tank, and swooshed over the Moskva Bridge into Kiev (right bank, downtown area). We dropped of Luda at Petrovka, and picked up Svetlana with time to spare. After pleasantries and introductions, we drove towards the city Center on our second errand: checking out Sveta’s daugher’s unused apartment in downtown Kiev. Actually, it’s her husband’s apartment.

The daughter and her husband (a big-wig with a cell phone company) had two kids and grew out of the 2BR apartment after 7 years. They moved up the street into a 180 sq. meter apartment (quite large 5BR I’m told). The thing is, Helen and I are needing to get the hell out of “Dodge,” so to speak. If you recall, we’ve lived in Troeschina (practically a slum) with the somewhat dysfunctional (IMHO) family for 18 months… and now that we are expecting a little guy (in March), it’s time to get real. In a nutshell, I love my mother in law, but the cultural divide is more than that — it’s an enormous chasm that would dwarf the Grand Canyon. I need out – especially because we have a little guy on the way, I want to provide my wife with a happy environment in which to prepare for and have a baby in (which is not the situation in our current environment – though I don’t mean to say it’s that bad, really — it’s just not exactly my ‘cup-o-tea’).

So we look at the apartment, and I’m in heaven. Overall, it’s a somewhat spacious 2BR with a nice layout, it’s centrally located (more or less), it’s secure, and it even has a decent Southern view. Sure, it’s not a penthouse suite or anything, but it’s fairly nice by my learned Kiev standards. It would definitely suffice for the next 9 months. Ahhhh…. the freedom…. can’t you just smell it? I can.

As George Michael would say: FREEDOM!…. FREEDOM!…. You’ve gotta give for what you take!  And trust me, we’ve given for the past 18 months; now I think it’s time to take a bit, for sanity and health. There’s even a little spot for my Dnepr (motorcycle) over the winter, where I doubt anyone will mess with her if settled under a nice cover. The apartment even has 2 bathrooms, so when the wife drops a bomb in #1, I can just pop on over to #2!

Moving on – so far so good! All is well, and we leave the apartment. We were heading off to the dacha for some mushroom hunting and relaxation. It had been ~2 years since Sveta had been to our dacha, and since that time we have added onto our little house in the country quite a bit: the kitchen, bathroom, and extra room. Plus we have heaters, a water pump, and real plumbing. O Joy!

We make it to a main junction in the heart of Kiev called Petrovka (where we dropped Luda off earlier) when BLAM… I lose power. I’ve driven enough and experienced enough mechanical failures in “my time” to know that this was serious. “SHIT” I said to myself (and the rest of the car, though only my wife knew the meaning). My wife, seated next to me, said “what? … What is it?”

I said we lost power!

We are bummed.

We coasted from the top of the overpass and stopped just beyond a petrol station. I open the hood, dreary-eyed, knowing that whatever I find there ain’t gonna be pretty. I took a peek under te car and there was no problem. So no big seals/gaskets broke, no oil or coolant spilling, no transmission dragging on the pavement. Initial inspection in the engine compartment = no problem. No loose wires, not broken bits, no grinding parts. Hmmm… I try to start the motor again. It just spins. It felt like no compression… but I knew this was impossible based on what had happened. Sure, perhaps one valve could go, but that would likely sound bad! Upon calling Andre (brother and owner), he suggested to “wiggle the spark plug wires.” Yeah. Uh-ha. Sure. Why I even wasted a nanosecond listening to his ideas, I don’t know. But that’s all I gave it – 1ns.

I immediately dismissed anything he, or anyone else, had to say. I have had numerous experiences with Russian mechanical advice. Often useless, seldom productive, and occasionally destructive. Nope, I’m not listening to them anymore unless they have a thick coat of grease already under their fingernails.  Russian men are ALWAYS willing to give their advice, and they love to tinker. Before you know it, you’ve got 5 guys there ripping apart your vehicle. No way, Jose. Not today. I knew that I knew how to diagnose/fix anything better than anyone else around – yes, even better than the guys at the gas station. What can I say – I’m extremely mechanically inclined. Facts are facts.

I lift the hood and peer to the left side of the in-line, 4-cyl, sideways mounted 2.0-liter, 8-valve, overhead-cammed motor. I see a slight space between the timing belt cover and the motor. I lift its plastic frame back a bit and peer in the crack. Lo and Behold – I see the bare gear emanating from the overhad camshaft. There’s no belt. Again, NO BELT THERE. Excellent – and – SHIT! Excellent that I figured out the problem, and Shit, what the hell are we going to do about it? It’s a Sunday and we are at a gas station. There’s no such thing as Triple-A here.

Wouldn’t you know it – the first frickin’ time I drive my brother’s car in over a month, the over-aged timing belt snaps. Why me? This shit is supposed to happen to the owner, no? He drives it like an idiot every damn day –> WHY did this happen to me? Well, I know: it happened to me because I’m the only one that could rationally diagnose and determine the true cause of the problem without taking it to a repair station and saying “I dunno, it just stopped working.” Also, we are supposed to inherit the car as soon as he buys a new car. So, I was destined to try to troubleshoot something under the hood before taking ownership. Moreover, it happened because it was MUCH better than if it had happened while my wife was using it to go to work, by herself, while crossing the Dnipro River on the Moskva Bridge. That would be extremely dangerous, to say the least.

So, I break out my Leatherman, because that’s the only tool I have with me.

Using mechanically inappropriate techniques (pliers would not be my first tool of choice here), I remove the bolts that kept the timing belt cover on the motor. Indeed, after removal, it was obvious what had happened: the belt snapped where a “tooth” was missing, and just after (or before, depending on which way the motor rotated)a point where 2 other teeth were missing. The belt was obviously old, and had not been replaced since the car) was purchased. Good Job Andre… Good Job. I appreciate that. The timing belt, in case you didn’t know Andre, is supposed to be checked at 50,000 km, and most definitely replaced by 60,000. The odometer says 67,800 km. Again, Thanks Bro!

I show the belt to Mom and Sveta, who were standing behind the car, and they touch their faces with both hands in slight horror. The exclaim “Kashmar” and “Ujas” — basically saying “The Horror” in a shocking sort of way. (Kinda nasty, but it reminds me of Marlon Brando in Apocalypse now). So as I’m telling my wife that we are going nowhere, she befriends a very kind, VERY religious man who was filling up at the petrol station.

Because of his inherent generosity (obviously), he offered to help tow us around Obolon (suburb where we were located). I was skeptical. He looked sorta like George from Seinfeld. Short, glasses, balding, and clearly a similar “way” about him. Of course, George on Seinfeld is kniving in a lot of ways, where this guy was quite pure and innocent. Nevertheless, we were to find out later that: 1) he was Jewish, turned Evangelist?; 2) he was traveling with his mother (who was in unhappily resting in the passenger seat) and whom LOOKED like George’s mother in Seinfeld!!! Holy crap; 3) he was married for 8 years but divorced, and now lives with his Mom (who, again, was in the passenger seat); and 4) He knows Obolon because he used to live there with his wife. This situation is commonplace here in Ukraine. Since everyone inherited their apartments/houses/land, all the kids just live at home and spend their meager wages on booze, cell phones, cars, and fashion. Why should they move out… Mom cooks and cleans for them!!!

So, although it was Sunday, we proceeded in the high hopes of finding an open repair establishment. The overly kind gentleman (we’ll just call him George, though his name was Oleg) opened the hatchback to his 1.6L Lada (very small car), and brandished a sparkling new tow strap – obviously he was looking for an occasion to use it. I took it on faith that everything was going to work out — and I just had to roll with it (pun intended). He hooked it to the tow loop on the front part of my Lada’s frame, and then semi-attached it to the back of his car. When the tension increased in tow, it clearly imparted inappropriate strain upon his fledgeling, wimpy, plastic, bendable bumper. Pathetic, but it worked.

Fine. He drove OK, and I did my best to keep a bit of tension on the bright yellow strap (without power brakes), trying not to slam into him. I turn my hazards on. To keep it a bit shorter than my memory recalls, I’ll leave out the the minutia of the first 3 service stations we visited — they were all were closed, and no parts were to be found either – we need a timing belt and a tensioner. However, one moment was unforgettable and worth describing: on the way to the third place, we made an illegal left turn — RIGHT in front of two cops. Needless to say, they pulled both of us over :-) , not that I had a choice in the matter

I stayed planted in my seat, while George got out of the car and spoke to the Militzia. Of course, he stopped right in the middle of an intersection. Russians do that a lot too… they don’t care what kind of mayhem it causes. People had to keep going around us… blah, blah, blah… and of course, I couldn’t do anything about it: I was, quite literally, powerless. (I suppose I could have pushed both cars, but screw that – I already pushed my car backwards to the original gas station for the more detailed inspection). After about 5 minutes of George sitting IN the cop car, obviously requesting a ticket as opposed to offering the standard 20 Hrivna payoff that the cops always get. Remember that George is as straight-laced as it gets.

He couldn’t possibly participate in an act of corruption? Could he?

OH-NO! Not my little Georgey!

Anyway, after 5 minutes George’s mother gets out of their car and starts blabbering in Russian: translated- “He’s tooo nice. He’s always too nice. We have errands to run, and we’ve been trying to run them for over a day now — and he just keeps helping people.” And on and on. She’s pacing, obviously pissed and frustrated. I guess George truly is hopelessly helpful – in an self-defeating sorta way. I think to myself, ‘this is going downhill, and fast.’

The cop issued the ticket, George, walked quickly back to his car and said to us that everything was normal. No worries. Let’s go. Well, after the 3rd and 4th failed attempts at finding a mechanic, I was sure we were doomed. Moreover, we were driving AWAY from our house, and I was getting bitter.

On our 5th (probably not final if it hadn’t have succeeded) drove by a small, single “grease-monkey” garage entitled “Diagnostics.” George, as he had done at the past 4 stations, takes the lead and speaks with the mechanic at the garage, as he had done at the previous 3 stations. Nobody else was there needing service, so indeed, the mechanic was willing to work. No surprise there. But it was a surprise that he was open on a Sunday, and ready to help us. Even more of a surprise, he seemed to be a nice guy! He said to go down the road and buy the part we needed, and he’ll get started on the car.

Helen went with George and his Mom, and got an earful. George is an evangelist. What the means, exactly, I’m not sure (except what I read on Wikipedia). Anyhow, he passed on some pamphlets outlining his religious thoughts – attempting to persuade my wife into becoming a member of his church. Needless to say, he had no idea that my wife was both a psychologist and an athiest. She had some fun toying with his brain – but that’s for her to tell you about.

I kept an eye on the mechanic (Igor) as he prepared the vehicle for timing belt transplant. I attempted to help whenever I could: I held the light over the engine cavity, I joked in my limited Russian, and a told him how much I appreciated the naked women on the walls. Before too long, though it took a solid 20 minutes, Helen, George, and Mom returned to the shop. All the while Mom and Sveta were gabbing out on the sidewalk… not worrying about a thing (now that we got towed to an open service station).

Helen handed me the belt and tensioner (combined $23), and I placed it under the hood (ready for action) after peering into the box. Another 15 minutes pass, and the mechanic tells me to try to start the motor. OK. Nothing happens. Ooops, he forgot to put on the timing gear. He attaches that after chuckling, and it starts normally! Wooo-hooo! He finished that job, and also fixed the emergency brake, which was obviously non-functional when the car nearly rolled off the rack in the shop.

In the end, Igor overcharged us. Why… because I’m a Yank! That’s why. The bastard. But hey, can you blame him? If I had a [presumably rich] American come into my garage needing some serious repair work, I’d probably try to charge him a bunch too! It was only $40 for an hour of labor… but it should have been half that much. But I didn’t care. He was a nice guy, quite friendly, and good at what he does. Plus, he let me watch everything he did — and I liked that!

I also liked his wallpaper.

Thus, 2-3 hours late, we head off to our dacha. All was going well, until we got to approximately 5 km from our house. We saw the police… again. I’ve seen them on numerous occasions, but I’ve never been stopped while driving. As luck would have it, the officer waved his black and white striped baton at me and my car.

“Shit,” I exclaimed.

My wife, in the passenger seat, said “what?”

I said “he’s pulling us over.”

She said, out loud, “KEEP GOING!”

Ha! Yeah right. I’m gonna just keep driving even though a Russian cop told me to pull over! I didn’t give that another instant of thought, and I quickly pulled over onto the shoulder. The cop meandered over to the car and leaned over. Helen began conversing with him. In a nutshell, he pulled us over because the hood of the car had a large scrape on it. (This happened a month or two ago when a truck backed up onto the front of Andre’s car). Supposedly the police are obligated to pull over any car with damage to the front of the vehicle, in order to insure that a person was not involved in the incident. So, he did. He looked at the registration, and that was fine. Interestingly, the vehicle’s registration is a card (like a license) that is kept in one’s wallet — and you have to remember to transfer this when lending your car to someone. Of course we always remember, and we had the registration. The officer also asked to see Helen’s passport, because her name is on the registration as a licensed operator. That being said, all she has to do is be IN the vehicle, and anyone can drive (like me, her husband).

Following the passport inquiry, he asked for my license. Reluctantly, but without hesitation, I handed him my California driver’s license. He sort of chuckled and said “oh, Americanski?” I said “da.” He said “Kalifornieye,” and I again said “Da.” He followed by saying “ah, Zwartzenegger… Ya znayoo Zwartzenegger” (I know Schwartzenegger).

At that point, I knew he was cool.

He chatted a bit more in Russian, looked at my license again, and returned the documents. We left as soon as he walked beyond the rear bumper — and headed straight for our dacha, as quickly as possible.

So, though there was potential for further drama, we arrived at our dacha in semi-normal fashion. We immediately proceeded to eat a big lunch (we were all starving) – including dessert and tea (of course). Within 5 minutes of finishing lunch, Helen and I were off to do some mushroom hunting. To keep it brief, we got a bunch of mushrooms (2-3 kg). Tonight I made a super-rich cream sauce a-la my brother’s (the chef’s) recommendations, which was poured over some perfectly cooked pasta – al dente. Yummy!

HOT DAMN!

It turned out soooooooo tasty with those wild mushrooms.

Hold on, I skipped a bit.

While mushroom hunting we had a couple of encounters… with snakes. Damn. I saw one and backed up. I turned my head, and I was maybe 1 foot from a second snake. Sure, these were only a couple of feet long — but just the sight of a snake sends shivers up my spine. My hairs stood on end, and I sped off. It took a few minutes for the “willies” to ware off. Ugh… I hate snakes.

Toward the end of the hunt, Helen encountered one. Unfortunately, she STRADDLED the snake without even noticing it!!! She had her eyes set on a mushroom. But when she kneeled down, she heard a “hiss.” Then again, another “hissssssssss.” She didn’t know what the hell it was… and then she saw it — right under her crotch! She screamed, shrieked, jumped, yelled, and hollered all at the same time. It was the scariest sound I’ve ever heard come out of her lungs. After that she was shaking with fright. Her hairs were standing up, and any sensation was just too creepy to deal with. No, it wasn’t poisonous, but that doesn’t take away from the fear instilled by seeing a snake between your legs (other than my snake).

Whew!

So we hunted for the mushrooms for nearly 4 hours, right behind our house in the “local” forest. We are really beginning to learn the local environment, and starting to learn where the “good patches” of mushrooms grow. We returned to home around 6pm, just in time to pack up and head out. We put our stash into the car, I adjusted the headlights (which had been needed since I remember), and headed home.

I expected a bit of traffic, as always, on a Sunday night heading back to Kiev. However, this was horrible. It’s a two lane road (one lane in each direction). But of course, that doesn’t stop the Russians. Ohhhhh Nooooo. A High percentage of Russians think they deserve to do whatever they want. They think that putting on their flashers and driving in the opposing traffic’s lane gives them a “green light” to drive past EVERYONE that is waiting patiently for the traffic to subside.

No shit. It’s ridiculous.

THESE PEOPLE HAVE A SCREW LOOSE!

I WANTED TO STRANGLE THEIR F*CKING NECKS.

At one point, there were 4 cars wide… all heading towards a 2-lane dam crossing, one lane in each direction. Why 4 lanes wide, you ask? Well, my lane and the opposite direction = 2 lanes. But then there were cars PASSING ME ON BOTH SHOULDERS!!!

ARE YOU KIDDING? Am I in the Twilight Zone? Aren’t we all trying to go the same way?

WHO THE HELL ARE YOU? DIPLOMATS? DIGNITARIES? PRESIDENTS? HONORARY ASSHOLES? Thankfully it’s only about 5% of the people that think they are privileged — otherwise it would be a total dogpile.

That being said, it took us over an hour to go about 2 miles (probably less). After a helluva day, that was painfu. I had to turn on my iPod when the persistent Russian babbling from the back seat (Mom and Sveta) came paralyzingly close to sending me over the edge.

Needless to say, we eventually made it across the damn, and proceeded to drop of Sveta in Kiev. We headed home, arriving safe and sound.

It was a long day, but the mushrooms made it worth it. Then again, I hate it when I can feel hairs turning from brown to gray on my head — for no good reason.

Hell of a long post today… time for bed.

Peace!

In Need of a Great Retinal Surgeon

OMG!

I can’t see.

I am not sure what happened.

Actually, I DO remember the last thing I saw… and I’m hoping it won’t leave permanent damage.

****

If you’ve followed my blog for a while, you will know that I’ve been blinded once before: by the sight of my horrified mother in law running naked through the house, like a sprinting cheetah, towards her room.

Yes… I got a clear view of my Mother-in-law’s backside. It was a shocker, to say the least.

****

Well my blog-reading friends… it happened again.

This time though… yep, you guessed it… FULL-FRONTAL.

Holy SCHNIKES.

Why, why, why, Lord… O’ why have you done this to me? Why do you punish me? What did I do to deserve such castigation?

I’m sure you are wondering what happened: I was on a business call for an hour in my room. She probably heard me talking with the door closed and thought, “hey, Snotty’s busy, so I can strut around brazenly without a worry.” Well, after I ended the phone call, I had to take a leak. The bathroom is around the corner from my room, off the hallway leading to the kitchen. I spin out of my door and around the corner… and…

BLAMMO!

I mean…   BLAAAAAAAMMMMMMOOOOOOOOOO!

She was walking into the kitchen from the balcony with her recently gifted thick-n-fluffy American bathrobe WIDE freaking open. I saw so many rolls, so much flesh, too much skin, and gigantic sagging mammaries — I retreated instantaneously, and felt weak, nauseous, disturbed, slightly angry, and creeped-out, all within the first 5 seconds. Thank the Maker (it’s just an expression) –> I don’t think she saw me! Otherwise our subsequent interaction(s) might be… hmmm… awkward.

Since retreating to my room I’ve discovered the only lasting effect — I’m visually paralyzed and emotionally traumatized. What to do? I don’t think my retinas will ever be the same.

Should I tell her, so that she doesn’t do it again?

Or, if she knows I’ve already seen her in her birthday suit, maybe she’ll just be that much more at ease to do it again in the future?

Or, if I just keep it to myself, will my nightmares go away???

Thankfully, my wife (and my mother) is a shrink… I may need some extended therapy after today’s episode.

Cheney in Ukraine

I flew into Kiev a couple of days ago. We took an unusual approach, and flew right over Kiev. Our home is not visible in the picture (more to the left), but this is a picture taken when the plane was almost exactly over downtown, looking south, along with the flow of the great Dnepr River.
kiev from above

Anyhow, this was the first time I had seen a U.S. Air Force airplane at Kiev Airport. In fact, after we disembarked from our plane and boarded the shuttle bus from the tarmac to the terminal, I saw a second US plane. The one in front was a C17 transport, I think. I can only guess what physically rolled out of it in order to protect Dick.

Ugh…

That’s right. USA Vice-President Dickhead Cheney was visiting (I was to find out later). OK, fine, I’ll just spit it out:  I cannot stand the current US Administration — Bush, Cheney, Karl Rove (though he’s not officially a member), and all of the other F*ckers. They are evil, greedy, etc ….  the list goes on and on, and I’m sure I don’t need to repeat it here. Whew… glad I got that off my chest.
Anyway, I’m guessing that the plane behind the C-17 was Cheney’s private US Government jet (Air Farce 2, or something like that).

Look, I love being an American, and I never shy away from representing the USA. I’m proud of it. But damn… I surely didn’t vote these assholes into office. There must be a lot of stupid Americans out there. Or, oh yeah, somebody made (is making) a lot of money by rigging the electronic voting machines. Surprised? Don’t be.
When I arrived I obviously knew something was going on, but I had no idea what. I hadn’t heard that Dick (or any other high ranking USA official) would be visiting the Ukraine. Not that it’s all THAT unusual, but the airport was truly a mess when we tried to physically exit… cars everywhere, and we had to practically walk out off the airport grounds to get picked up (they wouldn’t let Andre into the roundabout to pick us up). Anyhow, on the drive away from the airport there were militzia everywhere: military guys in grey/black camouflage, hats, walkie-talkies, etc… (I didn’t see them with guns) lining the ~10 mile road into Kiev. There was at least one man every 500 meteres on each side of the road. Seriously. Overboard.

Here’s the pic:

asshole

That’s all. Just was incredibly surprised that we parked our Lufthansa jet right next to an American transport jet and “Air Force 2.”
The next day Cheney was in Italy. Putz.

Friendly Babushka

I saw something on the Marshrutka (the little yellow city shuttles) today that I have never seen in the USA, though I’m sure it still happens in small towns and such. It was without question, a very introspective moment for me. I don’t think I’ve ever seen it on a public bus in America.
I was going into the City (Kiev) to meet up with my wife and some friends, and I was listenin’ to my iPod with my Coopers cap and shades on. I was sitting on the left side of the busy, a couple rows behind the presumed grandmother. The bus, as usual, was somewhat crowded, and all of the seats were taken. Most people cherish their seats on these buses; remember that there are always 2 lines when waiting — one for sitting, one for standing. Therefore when you get on the stuffy often crammed-like-sardines shuttle buses, you (generally) get what you wait for, seat or aisle.

So on this day, all was usual. The bus was full. An older lady, most likely already a grandmother (babushka), was sitting in the solo seat behind the driver. The seat is unusual in that it is oriented sideways and faces the aisle of the bus. I believe it was added after production, just to offer an additional sitting spot. The older woman was sitting contently for her ride into the City. Just then, a couple of stops after I got on (and somehow got a seat), a young mother and her ~18 month old got on. Now remember, that people wait for seats – so it is quite unusual for someone to act upon their chivalrous thoughts [of giving up a seat] (though it does occasionally happen). Anyway, the mom and baby had nowhere to go because of the already stacking bodies in the central aisle, and nobody was giving up their seat. It’s a rough world out there, ya know.
The seated grandmother offered not the seat itself, but indeed, a place for the child to sit: on her lap. The mother immediately agreed without hesitation, concern, thought, worry, or creepy consideration of possible ulterior motives by the very genuine (looking) older lady. The child, also without hesitation, nor demonstrating any hint of questionable affect, turned and allowed the grandmother to lift him straight up and softly placed the little lad onto her right knee.

The mother was relieved, the child was exhibiting standard kid behavior, and the grandmother was hinting at a smile (though, sadly, the vast majority of Russians don’t [typically] smile unless they’ve been drinking).

Nevertheless, the scene was incredibly touching. Yeah, yeah, I know… I’m a softy. But it really was quite adorable. The grandmother was happy, the kid content, and the mother relaxed. Of course the mother kept an eye on the child… but honestly, I think she was relieved to not have to worry about her kid getting squashed during the ~20-30 minute ride. The grandmother was only slightly perturbed by the child’s lack of interest in her. She tried in vain to elicit an approving glance from the kid – but it was not to be had by this generous babushka. The kid was either drugged or completely oblivious to the fact that he was sitting on some stranger’s lap. Or, it was such a typical phenomenon in this culture, that looking up and acknowledging the conscientiousness of the lap-offering person would really just be considered a bonus for the offerer – should he or she be wanting it.
In the end, as we approached our final stop (where most people get off), the mother smiled and said balshoi spaciba (thank you very much), picked up the toddler, and exited the bus. The smile from the grandmother was reciprocated, and a good deed was done. The kid never looked up at the old lady. Crazy… but everyone was happy, healthy, and satisfied = without a creepy or questionable motive entering consciousness.

I’m even from a very liberal and friendly state (if you ask me); but nevertheless, at least in my experiences, that simply doesn’t happen (anymore) in the USA. Perhaps I’m just out of touch with the small town atmosphere in the U.S., but I’m fairly sure I would NEVER see that on a BART train, no matter how packed it was. As you might expect, I’m experiencing many cultural differences. This one came through loud and clear. Hopefully I can take the best from both worlds (cultures) and incorporate them into my being in the future — and contribute to a better world :-)

Peace, Joy, Love, Happiness, Pup-n-Taco.

The Metro

Markets are always by Metro stops.

metro market

Housing is always by Metro stops.

houses

Hot chicks are always by Metro stops.

Amanda Braun

Everyone likes the Metro.

They have become, as in many cities, cornerstones of commerce, communication, sales, and of course travel. Our Metro is something to be admired. The smells, the sites, the diversity, the sweat.

You enter the metro through the standard set of glass/stainless steel doors. In this case, it is our nearest station — Petrivka (pronounced Petrovka) (СТАНЦИЯ ПЕТРОВКА):

Petrivka station

Then head downwards into the underground station.

entrance into petrovka station

And head over to the cashier for some tokens. Each token (sorry, no pic) is a blue piece of plastic about the size of a quarter. Each costs 50 kopeks (or 1/2 a hrivna, which equates to about 10 US cents). Sorry for the blurriness – it’s not your eyes!
metro cashier picture

After dropping your blue coin into the toll passage (guarded), you head down another set of stairs or escalator, and wait for a train.

Download The train arrives!

Most of the trains are blue. Some are painted advertisements for chocolate companies and the like. One the train it frequently looks something like this. Of course, this picture was taken in the winter — no mini-skirts here — only furs, jackets, and hats.

in the train

Occasionally you need to walk from line to line. The passageways are just delightful.

Download Mooooooooooo!

Sometimes you even cross over just to go up and exit out of the other station, as the traverse underground is more convenient. Nevertheless, at most stations, you exit using the escalators. It’s hard to convey in a picture, but these are definitely some of the longest single escalators I’ve ever been on.

escalator on the rise

So there’s your introduction to the Kiev Metro. Now… go ahead and scroll up so you can get another look at Amanda Braun. Go ahead – nobody’s looking. OK…

The smells: WHOA. I think many Russians (and/or Ukrainians – officially speaking) think showering is optional. There is undoubtedly a significant percentage of the population that showers at most once a week, perhaps once every 2 or 3 weeks. In reality, I’m not so sure it’s the people that smell so bad – once a week doesn’t quite give enough time for full-on odor to develop (I know from personal experience). More likely it’s their clothing. Let’s see if you can follow my logic: the same people that shower only once a week are likely to launder their clothing FAR less frequently. I’m guessing ONCE a month, at best. But wait, there’s more –> they wear those same clothes every day. No kidding. OK, perhaps they have 2 or 3 sets of clothes — but they just rotate through the pile next to their La-Z-Boy every morning, skipping the important step – laundering. So… even if someone looks like they are civilized, they may smell like shit. I don’t even want to think about their underwear. Thankfully in our house, we have a mother-in-law that tracks all of our clothing usage, laundering frequency, and room aromas. If ever there’s a need, she throws it into the wash. That being said, convincing my brother in law to shower more often remains a challenge…

So, our Metro also has babes. Yes, sexy, hot, sweaty, strapless, leopard patterned, mini-skirted, stiletto-wearing, BABES. Holy crap, I think that’s the only reason I like riding the otherwise unbearably noisy, obnoxious, and busy Metro system. The hotties are especially (and really, only) out and about during the spring/summer. Obviously they are out all year long, but it takes some heat (though not all that much) for them to really shed the clothing. Needless to say, there are tons of hot women here in Ukraine (and I’m only here because I married one –> one with lots of brains to boot!). That being said, not all are 10′s, but there are plenty of true beauties (at least as seen through my blue eyes).

Riding on the Metro is where you get some of the best views. For one, you are squeezed into the cars, and often unavoidably pressed into that wonderfully womanly body fat. But even when that doesn’t happen, you don’t have to look farther than one or two people to find a woman that is proudly displaying as much cleavage as she can squeeze out of her tiny top, without (directly) exposing her nipples. Then again, many don’t wear braziers, and the headlights shine right through. Shit… I think I’m getting myself into trouble with this post. Secondly, you are confined to the metro car in between stops. You can’t really get away, so it’s accepted that it’s OK to look. I suppose it’s the same everywhere… but there’s something about the Russians that make it unique. I guess you’ll have to visit to find out.

Kinda creepy, but I’ve seen plenty of guys travel (stalk) the whole length of the train car just to be next to a hot chick. Many Russians have no qualms with looking like total pigs. In fact, I think many of the women like it — call it perverse enjoyment.

busts in the metroMoreover, many of the metro stops involve going deep underground. Thus, there are long (and pretty steep) escalators (see above) that transport the folks up and down. It is perfectly normal to stare across at the opposing escalator and gawk. Hot damn. Sometimes you just HAVE to turn your head. I was with my buddy the other day, and I saw one of the best asses going up the other way. Bright red, skin tight shorts, with just a hint of the buttocks squeezing out the bottom of the 2-size too small spandex bottoms. I almost got off and ran up the other side so that I could just stand behind her for the last minute of the 3 minute escalator ride. OK, now I’ve really gotten myself into trouble. Did I mention how much I love my wife? Anyway, sometimes you just get lucky, and they squeeze in front of you going up — and you intentionally give them an extra step or two space, so that your head is at the proper level. OK, now I’m up a creek.

Wait a second, the street goes both ways — I know my wife looks at other men, too. Right, honey. Honey? Baby, where are you going?…

The Metro stations are fairly “blah” compared to the Russian stations (Moscow, St. Petersburg). Sure, sure, it’s similarly Soviet (as you would expect), but the Ukrainian (Kiev) stations lack the artistry of the Russian (Moscow) stations. Still, a few of the stations are quite nice, and remind you of stalwart, solid, crafted, “old-school” Soviet innovation and technology.

Here (left) are a few busts in one of the stations near downtown Kiev. I don’t know who they are — I’d have to ask my wife.

Alrighty, I’m tired… maybe I’ll add some more later.

On the positive side of Metro, it is efficient and timely. Perhaps not Swiss timing or anything like that, but many people rely on the Metro to get them around. At rush hour, a train shows up every ~90 seconds. The most I’ve waited is ~5 minutes, and that’s only very late at night, approaching the last trains of the day. Speaking of, I think the Metro opens at ~5am, and stops for the night at 12:30 – 1am. Almost the same as BART.

Cheers… and happy travels.

July 4 at the Ambassador’s house

Yep,

Ambassador's househard to believe, but I was there. His house is on the right, and a church is in the background. My wife got an invite, and I was allowed to attend as her guest. Man, did I get a look at the table from the secretary checking off names. I even “dressed up” for the occasion — but obviously we were under dressed when compared to the fully adorned dignitaries in attendance: virtually all of whom were wearing their best stuff — crowns, jewels, cuff-links, pins, wings, hats, regalia, etc… Moreover, only the rabbi and some Greek orthodox dude had beards, . Anyhow, I was miffed at the idea that some American secretary would even smirk at my attendance. Whatever.

So, we enter the compound (I mean, Ambassador’s residence) and begin waiting in a long line to pass the gate. Various officials kept passing us in line and letting themselves in. I’m wondering what we’re waiting for? Ahhhh… I see.. To greet (introduce) and shake the American Ambassador William Taylor’s hand. As soon as I saw that, I bailed outta line. “Where’s the beer? – there’s supposed to be free beer…” I asked my wife. We skedaddled over to the beer line, and I obtained a frosty summer beverage (Славутич, on draught), and began to mingle.

Happy Birthday America CakeWe passed by the cake table, and I had to snap this picture. I did elicit just a bit of homesickness, I have to admit. So we meandered up to the top, fairly large lawn and grabbed a little pulled beef BBQ sandwich, some salad, and some salsa. Good stuff. Our family doesn’t really eat much beef, so it tasted extra good! Before too long I needed a bevvy refill, and we headed down to the salmon tent. Whoa — AWESOME fish. GIANT salmon were baked on wood planks in huge BBQs — and they came off steamin’. I think I had 3 portions along with my second beer. Just as we began feasting on the Pacific Northwest delight (we were conveniently perched right in front of the salmon line), the Ambassador began addressing the 300-400 person gaggle of American semi-royalty (not really).

Ambassador William TaylorNice guy, that Mr. Bill. The other guy (on the left) was the interpreter, though Willy tried to speak (and somewhat successfully, I might add) a bit of Ukrainian to the people. Looking out to the right (not shown) were ~3 or 4 levels of lawns and shrubs where people were eating, drinking, and watching the Ambassador’s address. The first picture shows a mid-level view. So we helped ourselves to the fish while everyone’s back was turned towards the serving tables. Damn good stuff.

We then walked around a bit and ran into a couple of people that Helen knows. We met a Marine and his wife, an Air Force Major and his wife, a Navy guy and his wife, and several others that were consular attachés. Funny — I never thought I’d find a reason to use that those words in print, but there you have it. It was fun… we chatted, talked about typical American stuff, and how it is to be an American living here. Of course, all of these folks are really quite isolated in their experiences. I won’t go into it, but they pretty much have their lives planned for them — where to live, where to work, when to travel, where your driver is supposed to take you, etc… I, on the other hand, live in Troeschina; my favorite white ghetto this side of the Mississippi. I get to see real life in Kiev :-)

funtent with TaylorSo we chatted for a while, and enjoyed the July 4th BBQ and the American colleagues. Mmmmmm M&M’s. We passed out some business cards to try to drum up business for Helen (God knows there’s plenty of need), and we called it an evening after about 3 hours.

Definitely my first 4th of July in a former Soviet block country!!!

Beautiful, isn’t she?

eiffel and the wife

Backside of Mother in Law

Not that I need to continue on with this MIL theme much more, but I just couldn’t resist today’s scene.

This morning I woke up and stayed in my room for a bit. Didn’t emerge until 11:30am or so. My wife was in the kitchen (working from home lately) cooking up some zavtrak (breakfast).

The bedroom door was open (just a bit) and so I could hear MIL and wifey chatting away in Ruski (though I only understand a fraction of their discussion). The door has been open for a while, but I just haven’t emerged. Finally I decide it’s time to go brush my teeth and have my chai.

fat ass

Luckily I had my camera in my hand when I emerged, because I caught this priceless picture. I was as stunned as you probably are right now. Sure, a body is a body, and everyone has one. But I’ll be damned if I ever expected to see my MIL in all her GLORY! We almost ran into each other in the hallway, but fortunately she got a glimpse of me first, and quickly turned around. Moreover, the hallway is somewhat dark — so I couldn’t get the best view… butt then again, the camera did the recording.

OK, fine, I made that part up. No camera — and the picture above is not my MIL… but I found it on the web, and it is pretty close to what I saw. MIL is, perhaps, a bit more woman, actually. And MIL had her bra on, so I didn’t see the ginormous teets bouncing from side to side as she scrambled in a total panic as my shadow began to emerge from the doorway of my room.

She couldn’t quite move quickly enough though. I exited my room and saw the short and stocky outline of my MIL sprinting into her bedroom. Honestly, my brain couldn’t quite interpret what I was witnessing (I’ve never seen her move that fast) until she scrambled through her own doorway. The sunlight emanating from her bedroom doorway shone on her magnificent rippled and irregularly shaped behind. It was then that I realized — I just saw my mother in law totally NAKED!

“What?” I turned to my wife who was in the kitchen, at the end of the adjoining hallway. “What the hell was that? Was MIL naked?” She looked at me WIDE-EYED — and asked if I really just saw her. I responded, posturing as if she actually thought I could so quickly make up such an accurate depiction without actually knowing that it occurred.

My eyes burned. I think I have developed macular holes from the unexpected encroachment on my retina. Luckily I know a couple great surgeons…

Seriously… the funniest part of this shocking episode is the fact that MIL, wearing nothing more than a brazierre, walked all the way into the kitchen to chat with wifey about something. I guess she’s not shy at all when it comes to daughter. She said to my wife, “gee, I hope he doesn’t come out.”

Wouldn’t you know, Murphy was in the house. Fortune would have it that I didn’t walk in right at that time, because I would have gotten a full frontal view. I would have been immediately and totally blinded from such an vision… so I feel fortunate. From what I can gather, and based on actual events after confirming with my wife — MIL walked down the hallway away from the kitchen in all her glory after the initial chat with wifey, and turned away from my room and towards hers (at opposite ends of a hallway that makes a “T” with the kitchen hallway). At the last second, after making it all the way back to her room, she turned around to ask my wife one last question. As she did, she unfortunately (and to her horror) saw me exiting my room at far end of the hallway.

She must have flipped a 180 faster than any skater could. But unfortunately, the time it took to physically get her (semi-significant) mass back through her doorway allowed me a glimpse I will not soon forget. Holy Cow!!!
She apologized later. “Izvenita” she said. She was now fully clothed and ready to leave the house. In fact, I think she put on an extra sweater just because she felt so embarrassed. She smiled at me, and I couldn’t help but laugh a little, exhibiting a huge grin. It really was… too funny.

Ahhhhh…. life in close quarters. I’m afraid it’s only a matter of time before the roles are reversed.

In-Laws

Have any of you ever lived with your mother in law?

Sure, sure… it’s a rhetorical question, because so many of you have – especially if you have lived in a foreign country. It’s not as common in the States, but here, and I’m assuming in other places less developed and less committed to prodding the kids to leave the “nest,” it happens all the time.

I would venture to say that in this part of town, the MAJORITY of kids grow up and stay in the house. Upon meeting a significant other, they stay in the house! They have kids in the house. They grow old in the house, and they die in that house.

I think it has to be the poverty. I say this because I’ve been struggling with my mother in law, and holy shit — if I had the money I’d be outta here. There are good things and bad things, but sometimes those bad things drive me totally crazy. What can I say? I never even considered that I would be “one of those people” that struggles to live with their in-laws.

But, ALAS, I am. I wonder… would it be the same with my parents? Now that I’m older (approaching 40). Not sure.

That’s all for now…

I’ll post again tomorrow.

Ridiculous, selfish, stupid, macho, sexy, stupid, cool, classy, stupid, suave, elegant, and still… stupid.

They just don’t get it. Granted, it’s not all that different in Ukraine than in other parts of Europe (and the rest of the world) — but I thought there was some 100th monkey effect with some things we humans do. And I thought that addictively inhaling tar into one’s lungs was one of them — in fact, one of the more obvious stupidities.

Why do so many Ukrainians smoke cigarettes? Oh, maybe it’s the ads. They are everywhere. Billboards, buildings, airports, cars, markets, stickers, signs, etc… Or, maybe it’s because they are dirt fucking cheap. I saw some packs for $0.30 US Dollars. Yes. 30 cents — for a pack of 20. Stupid Americans are paying WAAAAY too much for a pack-o-smokes.

Maybe it’s because it restricts the blood flow to your peripheral structures – namely your skin – and thus, it helps keep your warmth inside during the winter. But wait a second, they smoke year round! Or, maybe it is because everyone does it – and to be cool – you can do it too! And you can kill yourself doing it — WAAAAY COOOOL.

Or, maybe it’s because it make your clothes smell like shit and makes your teeth brown. That’s always attractive. It leaves a great impression, over and over again.
Who knows? But damn it I get pissed off when they so readily throw their wrappers, packs, and butts anywhere and everywhere. Oh wait – they do that with everything, not just cigarette paraphernalia. But, that’s for another post.

The Adventure Begins

Well, I suppose this adventure started when I met my wife in San Francisco. It seemed like a fairly straightforward beginning to a relationship. Thanks to Craigslist, and her willingness to respond to an admittedly one-sided and needy post, I met her at Starbucks for a cup of coffee back in July, 2005. The first few hours went by like a bullet train in the night. I was brutally honest, figuring that I have nothing to lose, really. My last few dates were pathetic – so what was one more? She was inquisitive to the core. Apropos, considering she’s a shrink (which I discovered after about an hour of blabbing). We closed down that fine coffee-swilling establishment that night (first time in a long time), and I asked her if she’d be keen to grab dinner.

*** I knew she was a keeper when she said yes, strapped on the extra helmet I cleverly brought with (just in case), and we rode into the Mission for some nuveau Chinese cuisine.***

I brought her home on the trusted 2-wheeled steed, and smoothly deposited a shy, sweet kiss on her right cheek, “goodnight.” I got bugs in my teeth on the ride home over the bridge. A simple kiss after a wonderful evening with a beautiful woman, and I was lofted into the heavens like a 12 year old boy seeing “that girl in the hall” while running between Spanish and Social Studies. There were butterflies. Plenty of them. But somehow I knew this was real.

The teaser, for me, was that I was off to Costa Rica the following week – for a TWO WHOLE WEEKS – and we didn’t’ have time to catch up again before departure. Just as well — you shouldn’t seem tooooo interested, right? Nevertheless, from the moment I left her in front of her apartment near USF, and throughout my entire (epic) trip to Guanacaste (Costa Rica), I could NOT get her out of my mind. I even told my buddies that she could be “the one.”

So, what about the “adventure” part?
Well, the kicker is that she is not an American. Wouldn’t you know it! I could sense something in her way, and my semi-unsophisticated (not really – but I think I was drunk with adoration) ear could only tease out the subtlest of inconsistencies in her speech. Sure, I figured she was not quite a native Californian, but regarding the possibility of her being raised outside the States for over 20 years – nope, I (you) wouldn’t have guessed it in 100 years. I’m a native Californian myself, and I swear, she sounded (and still sounds) like someone who grew up around the Bay Area, or at most, in one of the States west of The Rockies. She looks pretty much like a California Girl, as well. I was quite surprised to find out that she was (is), in fact, 100% Ukranian. I kinda wondered the same thing my Grandma wonders to this day – why did you have to go and fall in love with a Ukrainian.

–> And so, on with the rest of my wonderful adventure…